Lei View of the World

This picture of a mother feeding her child was taken at one of the shrines on top of Swayambunath, a Buddhist shrine in Kathmandu. She was sitting inside the area where the prayer wheels and the oil lamps are. Devotees would turn these prayer wheels while reciting their mantras. They would also pour oil on the cups and light them as an offering.

I don’t know the effect of this picture on you. But while looking at the picture, my eyes wander and my mind thinks about what it sees, why this poor woman decided to feed her baby at this spot, where there were other places in the area. It seems to be a living picture to me.

This is a thangka painting. Thangka is a kind of painting on cotton canvass. It usually depicts the image of different gods, godesses and the significance of philosopy related to Buddhism. This kind of painting started in India, China, Tibet and Nepal.

In Nepal, thangka painting has survived because it is the birthplace of Buddha. The Tamang, Newar and Sherpa ethnic groups of Nepal have contributed a lot in promoting this kind of painting. Thangka painting used to be done only by the Lama, the Buddhist priest. The art was passed on from generation to generation. At present, because of the popularity of this kind of painting, it is now being taught to lay people.

The thangka painting is a mandala (literally meaning a circle) or a tantric meditation device. It is a visual aid for concentration and introvertive meditation leading to the attainment of insight and to the activation of forces culminating in “Siddi” supernatural forces. There are many types and varieites of mandalas depending on the nature of the central deity.

The mandala represents a place of purity, a magic sphere cleansed of spiritual obstacles and impurities. The square of the “sacred palace” proper is enclosed in multiple circles of flame, vajra, eight cemeteries, lotus, then the inner square to reach the deity of the mandala. Vajra, representing “thunderbolt”, is the symbol of power of Buddha’s all pervading knowledge over the divine strength of Lord Indra.

This is a series of prayer wheels located outside the Bouddha Nath Buddhist Temple in Kathmandu. Buddhism is the second largest religion in Nepal, after Hinduism. Devotees usually turn these wheels while reciting mantras so that their prayers can be heard. I call this one of the prayer aids of the Buddhists.

In contrast, the prayer of a Christian is sure to be answered if it is in accordance with God’s will, and the praying person has asked God to cleanse him/her of her sins and has asked God for forgiveness. Christians can pray everywhere and communicate directly with God.

Here’s another picture of a temple, viewed from the grounds.

Notice the struts and ceilings that have wooden carvings also. This is one of the temples in the Patan Palace. Patan Durbar (durbar = palace) is listed in UNESCO’s World Heritage. Some structures were built as far back as the 17th century.

21 May 2003

This Bouddha Nath Temple is located inside Kathmandu. I was fortunate enough to witness how they paint the stupa. I saw a man with a big basin of white paint (lime or apog). He splashed the contents of his basin onto the surface of the stupa. Some devotees have a saffron-colored paint. These give the saffron and white color of the stupa.

Notice the prayer flags flying from the top of the stupa. These are in five colors, representing five protective deities: water, space, earth, fire and air. Each of the prayer flags contain mantras or prayers. Buddhists believe that when the wind blows through these prayer flags, the air is purified.

On top of the stupa is the gilded harmika, the four pairs of painted eyes of Buddha. These eyes symbolize the sun and moon. On top of the eyes is the spire with 13 golden rings.

Pashupati Nath is one of the most sacred Hindu temples in Nepal. It is situated at theh banks of the Bhagmati River, considered to be holy to Nepalese. This river flows to the Ganges river in India.

Pashupati Nath has a Hindu temple, where the top is covered with pure gold. It also has a hospital where the terminally ill spend their last days on earth. Nepalese Hindu believe that dying at the banks of the Bhagmati river makes it easier for them to reach Nirvana. This is why before a person is cremated, the body is first layed at the steps leading to the river, with the feet touching the water.

When I came to Pashupati Nath, a cremation ceremony has just been completed. Ashes of the burned body were bing swept into the river, where they believe they would eventually flow into the holy Ganges river in India.

Meanwhile, two places were being prepared for cremation. I was able to observe one of them. The the body was first laid by the waters. When the pile of wood was ready, the body was carried around the pile three times before it was placed on top of the pile. All but a white piece of cloth remained on top of the corpse. Then the last rites were done with the male members of the family (women were supposed to have a weaker heart, they were not present). Then the pile of wood was lighted. Wet straw was placed on top of the pyre so that the fire would go down and effectively burn the body. It usually took 3-4 hours to completely burn the body.

Nepalese Hindu believe the body must be cremated within 24 hours. This is good for health and sanitation purposes. There is no need to embalm the body. It also allows the bereaved family to go on with their lives.

As I left Pashupati Nath, another body was laid by the waters, while the pyre was being prepared. It was a sad morning, with four cremations while I was there.

This is one of the windows of the buildings surrounding the Bhaktapur Durbar Square. A durbar means a royal palace. In the olden times, a king lived here. Now, it is a museum. This peacock window is famous for its intricate wood carvings. It is also called “Mayur Jhyal”.

The hanging objects below the ledge are wooden carvings for sale by the local artisan. They include an imitation version of this window.